leather cash cover The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that t

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; leather cash cover the butter leather cash cover chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.

Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious leather cash cover debutantes and the real action is that of the spectators, some parading the Indian flag. Loud music and a comp re pump up the crowd s patriotic fervour. The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except during Ramadan, when their stands are noticeably quieter.

Mrs Bhandari s Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2228509; http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com; 10 Cantonment; camping 200, s/d from 1500/1800; ais) Legacy of the much- loved Mrs Bhandari (1906 2007), this earthy, ecoconscious guesthouse is set on

The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that timings vary according to sunset). Cameras are permitted (free) but bags, large and small, are banned (although this is haphazardly enforced).