hey mami by fannypack will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and ph

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries hey mami by fannypack and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.

will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos, this place chronicles the work of Chandigarh s chief architect. hey mami by fannypack There s a black-and-white photo of a suit- and-bow-tie-attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated 4 November 1960, part of which states, I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.

Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2708888; www.istahotels.com; GT Rd; s/d from 9000/9500; aiWs) Amritsar s only fivestar hotel, sits beside a bright shopping mall, alphaOne, hey mami by fannypack 3km east of the interstate bus terminus. Fans of five-star hotels may be a little underwhelmed by the smallish standard rooms, but will adore the pool and the pampering Ista Spa, which has quite a reputation. Room, meal and spa packages are available. Thai and Chinese hey mami by fannypack cuisine is available in Thai Chi Restaurant and teppanyaki is available in Collage, the hotel s multicuisine restaurant (mains 160 to 400).

CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling snacks and cold drinks. Visas Visas are theoretically available at the Pakistan embassy in Delhi; however, travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).