t phon If you happen to be passing through this small town, sites of interest include the Aam Khas Bagh, a

If you happen to be passing through this small town, sites of interest include the Aam Khas Bagh, a Mughal-era walled garden, and the Gurdwara Fatehgarh t phon Sahib, which commemorates the 1704 martyrdom of the two youngest sons of the 10th Sikh guru, Gobind Singh. Entombed alive by the Mughals for refusing to convert to Islam, t phon they are honoured at the three-day Shaheedi Jor Mela held here every December. There s also Rauza Sharif, the marble mausoleum of Muslim saint Shaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindi, which draws pilgrims during the Urs festival (August).

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) and the rooftop t phon cafe has squinty temple views. Newly refurbished rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

Chandigarh is spread out but, with its cycle paths and parks, was built for cycling. The Chandigarh t phon Tourism office hires out bicycles ( 100 per eight hours); bicycles are also available for hire at Sukhna Lake (p204) for the same cost but with a (refundable) 500 deposit.