The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest reiseadapter gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.
Ghazal MULTICUISINE $$ (%2704448; Sector 17-C; meals 195-395; h8am11.30pm; a) A Chandigarh stalwart, grand Ghazal has an admirable Indian, Continental and Chinese menu. Ghazal special murg (cream-based reiseadapter chicken) or bhuna gohst (mutton) is nicely washed down with draught beer. Vegetarians are well catered for.
6 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub BAR (Grand reiseadapter Hotel, Queen s Rd) A mixed crowd of travellers and locals are attracted to this congenial bar by the icy cold, glycerine-free, draught Kingfisher beer and the seriously delicious snacks and meals from the Grand Hotel s excellent kitchen.
The old city, which includes the Golden Temple and bazaars, is located to the southeast reiseadapter of the train station and is surrounded by a circular road, once the site of the city s massive walls. Modern Amritsar, north of the train station, contains the majority of the upmarket hotels and Lawrence Rd, which is a popular eating and shopping street. The bus station reiseadapter is located 2km east of the train station.
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