conterra packs Regular buses run to Patiala ( 45, three hours), Sirhind ( 30, two hours), Anandpur Sahib ( 45, 2 ho

Regular buses run to Patiala ( 45, three hours), Sirhind ( 30, two hours), Anandpur Sahib ( 45, 2 hours), Amritsar ( 150, seven hours), Dharamsala (ordinary/deluxe 200/350, eight hours), Manali (ordinary/ deluxe conterra packs 300/400, 11 hours), conterra packs Haridwar ( 145, six hours), Delhi ( 180, 5 hours) and Shimla ( 130, four hours).

Sultanpur is 46km southwest of Delhi and getting there is tougher than spotting a red-crested pochard! There are irregular, bone-shaking buses ( 40, one hour). It s better to hire a taxi (return 1400).

3 Entertainment Tagore Theatre (%2724278; Sector 18-B) hosts music, dance and theatrical performances. Movies (mainly Hindi) are screened at the Kiran Cinema (%2705082; Sector 22-D) and Neelam Cinema (%2703600; Sector 17D), while a mix of Bollywood and Hollywood is shown at the multiplex Fun Cinemas

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.