Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious debutantes and the real action is that of the spectators, some parading the Indian flag. Loud music and a comp re pump up the crowd s patriotic fervour. The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except during Ramadan, when their stands are noticeably quieter.
Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2708888; www.istahotels.com; GT Rd; s/d from 9000/9500; aiWs) Amritsar s only fivestar hotel, sits beside a bright shopping mall, alphaOne, 3km east of the interstate bus terminus. Fans of five-star hotels may be a little underwhelmed by the smallish standard rooms, but will adore the pool and the pampering Ista Spa, which has quite a reputation. Room, meal and spa packages alba club el alamein are available. Thai and Chinese cuisine is available in Thai Chi Restaurant alba club el alamein and teppanyaki alba club el alamein is available in Collage, the hotel s multicuisine restaurant (mains 160 to 400).
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