do moths have balls Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise i

The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts do moths have balls high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.

The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.

Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.

Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting do moths have balls diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, crispy lotus stems, lettuce wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, the chocolate trip.

light reading definition Crystal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2225555; Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by ma

Crystal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2225555; Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by many as one of Amritsar s best restaurants, Crystal boasts all sorts of yummy global favourites, from lasagne light reading definition to fish curry. Book ahead, especially on weekends. There are two Crystals (one upstairs and one downstairs), apparently due to a family split we re equally divided when it comes to judging which is best. Guess you ll just have to try both!

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama. D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 4 Martyrs' Gallery. light reading definition B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden Tower. D4 31 Adarsh Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. light reading definition A3 33 Information Office.A4 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour light reading definition Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 light reading definition 35 Tourist light reading definition Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. D3 40 Train Reservation Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2

light reading leading lights Ghazal MULTICUISINE $$ (%2704448; Sector 17-C; meals 195-395; h8am11.30pm; a) A Chandigarh stalwart,

JUNK ART GENIUS Following Independence, as refugees flooded across the Pakistan border and a newly liberated India made the bold statement that was Chandigarh, light reading leading lights one of the new city s road inspectors, a diminutive arrival from Pakistan called Nek Chand, was struck by the amount of waste generated as villages were cleared in the construction of Chandigarh. Chand hauled this matter light reading leading lights back to his jungle home and gave it a second life as sculptural material. Eventually he had tens of thousands of forms made of urban and industrial waste, as well as local stone, created by his own hands and the slow forces of nature. His battalions of water women, pipers, chai drinkers, monkeys, cheeky stick men wearing tea-cup hats, dancing women and other characters steadily multiplied in secretly sculpted spaces. Chand s efforts weren t officially discovered until 15 years after they began, when a government light reading leading lights survey crew stumbled upon them in 1973. The unauthorised garden was illegally occupying light reading leading lights government land and should technically light reading leading lights have been demolished, but fortunately the local council recognised the garden as a cultural asset. Chand was given 50 labourers and paid a salary so he could devote himself to the project. Today, the garden is said to receive over 2000 visitors a day. There s a Nek Chand Foundation (www.nekchand.com), raising funds and recruiting volunteers. Chand had no formal education beyond high school. In my childhood light reading leading lights I used to build mud houses and other toys. He is said to be influenced by modernist masters light reading leading lights such as Le Corbusier and Gaudi, but he is clear on the main source of his ideas: they are a gift from God.

The Akal Takhat, where the Shiromani light reading leading lights Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (SGPC), or Sikh Parliament, traditionally meets, was heavily damaged when it was stormed by the Indian army in 1984. The Indian government later repaired it; however, the Sikhs, appalled by the army s actions in the first place, pulled it down and rebuilt it themselves.

Ghazal MULTICUISINE $$ (%2704448; Sector 17-C; meals 195-395; h8am11.30pm; a) A Chandigarh stalwart, light reading leading lights grand Ghazal has an admirable Indian, Continental and Chinese menu. Ghazal special murg (cream-based chicken) or bhuna gohst (mutton) is nicely washed down with draught beer. Vegetarians light reading leading lights are well catered for.

Neelkanthi Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodation option, with charmless but otherwise fine rooms; the attached tourist office (%293570; h9.30am-5pm light reading leading lights Tue-Sat) is of limited help.

stiri 9 am Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise i

Kishan Haveli (%01887-232650; Academy Rd; r 600-1000; a) is set in spacious grounds and has an uncommercial, ramshackle charm. This mellow countryside retreat, around 1.5km from town, has comfortable rooms and a simple restaurant (meals 80).

Taxis charge around 200 to the airport. Two reputable taxi companies are Indus Cab (%4646464) and Mega Cab (%4141414), with both charging around 15 per kilometre. For local sightseeing, including Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens, the Chandigarh Tourism office can arrange taxis ( 900 per eight hours, 80km limit).

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, crispy lotus stems, lettuce wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, the chocolate trip.

power outlets in canada Taxis charge around 200 to the airport. Two reputable taxi companies are Indus Cab (%4646464) and Me

Taxis charge around 200 to the airport. Two reputable taxi companies power outlets in canada are Indus Cab (%4646464) and Mega Cab (%4141414), with both charging around 15 per kilometre. For local sightseeing, including Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens, the Chandigarh Tourism office can arrange taxis ( 900 per eight hours, 80km limit).

Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas PILGRIMS REST HOUSE $ (dm free but donations appreciated, r with/without AC 300/100; a) To stay in the huge accommodation blocks for pilgrims and visitors to the Golden Temple, check in at Guru Arjan Dev Niwas. Foreigners are generally power outlets in canada accommodated in the dorm at Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas next door. Rooms and dorms are ba

travel wallet tutorial Kaptain s Retreat HOTEL $$ (%5005599; www.kaptainsretreat.com; Sector 35-B; s/d 2190/2490, ste 3190;

Kaptain s Retreat HOTEL $$ (%5005599; www.kaptainsretreat.com; Sector 35-B; s/d 2190/2490, ste 3190; a) Owned by cricketing travel wallet tutorial icon Kapil Dev, this 10-room hotel is filled with cricket paraphernalia, including signed travel wallet tutorial cricket bats and coloured-glass objets d art. For unenthusiastic pace bowlers, there s a relaxing bar-restaurant downstairs. The rooms aren t superluxe travel wallet tutorial but are comfy, cosy with heavy wooden furnishings and shuttered windows.

Chandigarh fails to excite on the accommodation front, especially when it comes to value for money. To stay with a family, contact the Chandigarh Tourism offi ce (p 209 ) for details about its Bed & Breakfast scheme (rooms from 1000).

Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the spectacular Golden Temple. The gold-plated gurdwara glitters travel wallet tutorial in the middle of its sacred pool of placid water and draws millions of pilgrims from all over the world. A welcome escape from the frenetic bazaars, this gilded temple is rated by many tourists as a glowing highlight of their visit to India. Regrettably, the same can t be said for the hyperactive streets! Indeed, Amritsar travel wallet tutorial s crush of fuming mechanical traffi c, especially in the people-packed old city, can be downright frazzling.

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

some light reading Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai

(and present documentation) some light reading irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur some light reading Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla some light reading Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari some light reading Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur some light reading Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur some light reading Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon some light reading Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary some light reading Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai) Upstairs from the affiliated Sai Sweets shop, this is the most traveller-friendly budget option in town. Run by the courteous Vikramjit, the rooms aren t fancy but are well maintained and adequately comfortable it s a sound choice for solo women.

Piccadilly Blue Ice Bar & Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$$ (%2703338; some light reading Sector 17-E; mains 175-750; h11am11pm; a) A contemporary, split-level restaurant with a cool-blue decor and slick service that is suitable for an unhurried predinner drink followed by well-executed multicuisine dishes. Menu items range from Thai fish curry to burgers and chicken stroganoff; barbecued prawns top the menu at 750.