make eye pillow minutes from 4.30am to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost always full. Otherwise, from

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced make eye pillow pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.

Punjab is the home of the Sikhs, butter chicken and bhangra (music/dance). Here, Sat Sri Akall replaces Namastee as the preferred greeting, and Sikh gurdwaras outnumber Hindu temples as places of worship. Tourists and worshippers flock to Amritsar s gleaming Golden Temple, while nationalists and the curious join in the fun at Attari Wagah s entertaining border-closing ceremony on the India Pakistan border.

minutes from 4.30am to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost make eye pillow always full. Otherwise, from the train station to the Golden Temple a cycle-rickshaw costs around 30, an autorickshaw 50 and a taxi (%01835151515) 120. To the airport, an autorickshaw costs 200 and a taxi 500.