etude house sleeping mask The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are

Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses. There are shops selling everything from devotional ornaments to jootis; a good place for jootis is around Gandhi Gate (Hall Gate), where they start at 200. Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar is full of salwar kameez and saris, while the city s more modern shops can be found along Lawrence and Mall Rds.

The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are a mixed bag (some in better shape than others), all adequately comfortable with flatscreen TV. Ensure the AC works in summer!

The overnight 14553/4 Delhi Una Himachal Express train connects Delhi with Anandpur Sahib (sleeper/3AC/2AC 165/430/590, eight hours, daily). It departs Delhi at 10.15pm and on the return leg it departs Anandpur Sahib at 10pm.