Kishan Haveli (%01887-232650; Academy Rd; r 600-1000; a) is set in spacious grounds and has an uncommercial, ramshackle charm. This mellow countryside retreat, around 1.5km from town, has comfortable rooms and a simple restaurant (meals 80).
Taxis charge around 200 to the airport. Two reputable taxi companies are Indus Cab (%4646464) and Mega Cab (%4141414), with both charging around 15 per kilometre. For local sightseeing, including Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens, the Chandigarh Tourism office can arrange taxis ( 900 per eight hours, 80km limit).
Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.
Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, crispy lotus stems, lettuce wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, the chocolate trip.
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