Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses. There are shops selling everything from devotional ornaments to jootis; a good place for jootis is around Gandhi Gate (Hall Gate), where they start at 200. Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar is full of salwar kameez and saris, while the city s more modern shops can be found along Lawrence and Mall Rds.
Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2708888; www.istahotels.com; GT Rd; s/d from 9000/9500; aiWs) Amritsar s only fivestar hotel, sits beside a bright shopping mall, alphaOne, 3km east of the interstate bus terminus. Fans of five-star hotels may be a little underwhelmed by the smallish standard rooms, but will adore the pool and the pampering Ista Spa, which has quite a reputation. Room, meal and spa packages are available. Thai and Chinese cuisine is available in Thai Chi Restaurant and teppanyaki is available in Collage, the hotel s multicuisine restaurant (mains 160 to 400).
Tourist Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%2553830; bubblesgoolry@yahoo.com; 1355 GT Rd; dm/s/d 100/150/300; i) This stalwart is a backpacker institution (especially with overlanders). The rooms may be scuff ed and bare but have high ceilings and fans, and you re paying peanuts! eagle creek counseling There is a go-with
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