some light reading Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, t

214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) some light reading Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919 see the boxed text, p 216. Some of the bullet holes are still visible in the memorial wall, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There s an eternal (24-hour) fl ame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs Gallery (h6am- 9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) exhibiting fi rsthand reports and pictures. Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (Ram Bagh) MUSEUM (admission 10; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the extraordinary Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the Lion of Punjab (1780 1839). some light reading Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound eff ects (think screaming men and horses in pitch battle), depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially some light reading those with a penchant some light reading for war, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas. Shoes must be removed and cameras aren t permitted inside. Mata Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Model Town, Rani-ka-Bagh; hdawn-dusk) This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female saint Lal Devi. Women wishing some light reading to become pregnant some light reading come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a cave-like divine mouth. Sri Durgiana some light reading Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Gobindgarh Rd; hdawn-dusk) Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu ver- 6 66 66 6 6 66 66 66 6 66 6 66 6 6

Government Museum & Art Gallery ART GALLERY (%2740261; Sector 10-C; admission 10,; h10am4.30pm Tue-Sun, free guided tours 11am & 3pm Tue- Sun, films 11am & 3pm Sun) This gallery has a sizeable collection, including some light reading phulkari (embroidery work) wraps made by Punjabi village women, metal work, Indian miniature paintings, contemporary art and Gandhara

If you happen to be passing through some light reading this small town, sites of interest include the Aam Khas Bagh, a Mughal-era walled garden, and the Gurdwara Fatehgarh Sahib, which commemorates the 1704 martyrdom of the two youngest sons of the 10th Sikh guru, Gobind Singh. Entombed alive by the Mughals for refusing to convert to Islam, some light reading they are honoured at the three-day Shaheedi Jor Mela held here every December. There s also Rauza Sharif, the marble mausoleum of Muslim saint Shaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindi, which draws pilgrims during the Urs festival (August).

Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly embraced the cuisine of the Mugals and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken some light reading is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour some light reading the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fish.