CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; lader ranch Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling snacks and cold drinks. lader ranch Visas Visas are theoretically available at the Pakistan embassy in Delhi; however, lader ranch travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).
AB s INDIAN lader ranch $$ (%2795666; Sector 26; mains 195-525; h11ammidnight; a) Settle back at suave AB s (specialising in Punjabi, Kashmiri and Mughlai cuisine) and savour the likes of tabakh maaz (spicy, marinated mutton ribs), paneer achari (slow fl ame-cooked, spice-andpickle- marinated unfermented lader ranch cheese) and jungli gosht (spicy tomato-based mutton).
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