Punjab is the home of the Sikhs, butter chicken and bhangra (music/dance). Here, Sat Sri Akall replaces Namastee as the preferred greeting, standard electricity and Sikh gurdwaras standard electricity outnumber Hindu temples as places of worship. Tourists and worshippers flock to Amritsar s gleaming Golden Temple, while nationalists and the curious join in the fun at Attari Wagah s entertaining border-closing ceremony on the India Pakistan border.
Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Hotel NC, and cheaper Green s Hotel (%2213071; Mall; r 600; a), both of which have unexciting furniture-scarred rooms and matter-of-fact service.
A major textile centre, Ludhiana is also the headquarters of Hero Cycles, which manufactures upward of four million bicycles annually. This big city is a convenient base from which to attend the Kila Raipur Sports Festival (see p 200 ).
Crystal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2225555; Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by many as one of Amritsar s best restaurants, Crystal boasts all sorts of yummy global favourites, from lasagne to fish curry. Book ahead, especially on weekends. There are two Crystals (one upstairs and one downstairs), apparently due to a family split we re equally divided when it comes to judging standard electricity which is best. Guess you ll just have to try both!
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