stiri 9 am Every late afternoon, just before sunset, members of the Indian and Pakistani military meet at the b

Every late afternoon, just before sunset, members of the Indian and Pakistani military meet at the border to engage stiri 9 am in a 30-minute display of pure theatre. The fl ag-lowering, closing-of-the-border ceremony is a fusion of orderly stiri 9 am colonial-style pomp, comical goose-stepping and, considering the two countries rocky relationship, stunning demonstration of harmony. So popular is this event, that grandstands have been specially constructed to accommodate the patriotic throngs.

Tourist Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%2553830; bubblesgoolry@yahoo.com; 1355 GT Rd; dm/s/d 100/150/300; i) This stalwart is a backpacker institution (especially with overlanders). The rooms may be scuff ed and bare but have high ceilings and fans, and you re paying peanuts! There is a go-with

CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, stiri 9 am there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling snacks and cold drinks. Visas Visas are theoretically available at the Pakistan stiri 9 am embassy in Delhi; stiri 9 am however, travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).

Hotel Shivalikview HOTEL $$ (%4672222; stiri 9 am www.citcochandigarh.com/shivalik view; Sector 17-E; s/d incl breakfast & dinner 4250/5050; ai) CITCO s midrange hotel has functional and comfortable, if somewhat humdrum rooms, each with TV, writing desk and cool tiled floors. As well as the good-value meal deal , there s a business centre, beauty salon and the popular Chinese restaurant, Yangtse (p 207).