donalu became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh San

became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer donalu Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, donalu Passion India).

The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar. There s an arms gallery donalu (admission 10; h10.30am5pm donalu Tue-Sun) in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays donalu antique weapons.