The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and you ll miss it). Then, the flags of both countries are simultaneously lowered and folded and the gates slammed shut. The border is now closed for the night.
became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).
Oriental Lounge BAR (Sector 26; h11am-midnight; a) Below AB s restaurant (p207), this chi-chi lounge-bar is a most civilised spot to slow the pace. There s imported beer and mint tequilas, among other things, while the pan-Asian food menu has an impressive range, from glass noodle soup to crab cakes. Happy hour noon to 6pm.
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