People come to the border, 30km west of Amritsar, for two reasons: to enjoy the late afternoon border-closing ceremony (see the boxed text, p 221 ) or to use the crossing between India and Pakistan (see the boxed text, p 220 ).
Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector voltage of household outlet 17-C; mains 140-300; voltage of household outlet h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.
Punjabi Rasoi MULTICUISINE $ (mains 45-85; h9am-11.30pm) A stone s throw away from the Golden Temple, this unpretentious, fan-cooled, all-veg restaurant rustles up reasonable Indian, Continental and Chinese fare.
JUNK ART GENIUS Following voltage of household outlet Independence, as refugees flooded across the Pakistan voltage of household outlet border and a newly liberated India made the bold statement that was Chandigarh, one of the new city s road inspectors, a diminutive arrival from Pakistan called Nek Chand, was struck by the amount of waste generated as villages were cleared in the construction of Chandigarh. Chand hauled this matter back to his jungle voltage of household outlet home and gave it a second life as sculptural material. Eventually he had tens of thousands of forms made of urban and industrial waste, as well as local stone, created by his own hands and the slow forces of nature. His battalions of water women, voltage of household outlet pipers, chai drinkers, monkeys, cheeky stick men wearing tea-cup hats, dancing women and other characters steadily multiplied in secretly sculpted spaces. Chand s efforts weren t officially discovered until 15 years after they began, when a government survey crew stumbled upon them in 1973. The unauthorised garden was illegally occupying government land and should technically have been demolished, but fortunately the local council recognised the garden as a cultural asset. Chand was given 50 labourers and paid a salary so he could devote himself to the project. Today, the garden is said to receive over 2000 visitors a day. There s a Nek Chand Foundation (www.nekchand.com), raising funds and recruiting volunteers. Chand had no formal education beyond high school. In my childhood I used to build mud houses and other toys. He is said to be influenced voltage of household outlet by modernist masters such as Le Corbusier and Gaudi, but he is clear on the main source of his ideas: they are a gift from God.
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