Neelkanthi Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodation option, with charmless but otherwise fine rooms; the attached tourist uk plug standard office (%293570; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) is of limited help.
Drop downstairs, past a scowling Clint East- wood, to the nonsmoking Wild West Bar in the basement, before diving into fl avoursome uk plug standard Northwest Frontier style cuisine at the restaurant. It does startlingly good dhal Bukhara (slow-simmered curried lentils) and Pathan kebab (lava stone roasted uk plug standard lamb).
oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cottages from 3599/3899; ais) Run by a dynamic duo, Gags and Jeeva, uk plug standard this stress-banishing ethnic countryside resort may be tricky to find (pick-ups possible with advance notice) given its secluded location uk plug standard (around 4.5km from the centre), but the effort is well rewarded. Tastefully appointed accommodation uk plug standard is in traditional-style (modern) cottages or rooms in the classy main complex, and tariffs include bed, tea and breakfast. Amenities uk plug standard and activities include a paintball field, gym, craft gallery, museum, restaurant and bar.
Punjab is the home of the Sikhs, butter chicken and bhangra (music/dance). Here, Sat Sri Akall replaces Namastee as the preferred greeting, and Sikh gurdwaras uk plug standard outnumber Hindu temples as places of worship. Tourists and worshippers flock to Amritsar s gleaming Golden Temple, while nationalists and the curious join in the fun at Attari Wagah s entertaining border-closing ceremony on the India Pakistan border.
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