the plaka # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # 40 2 33 39 27 4 1 9 11 18 19 21 13 15 8 OLD CITY Jallianwala Bagh 0

Piccadily Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2707571; www.thepiccadily.com; the plaka Sector 22-B; s/d from 3850/4850; aiW) This ageing but appealing three-star the plaka property off ers complimentary breakfast, contemporary the plaka rooms with LCD TV, minibar, sofa, writing desk, tea-andcoffee- making facilities, safe, and satiny bed- covers. It s worth asking for a discount and, with two restaurants, you don t have to travel far for a decent meal. Graze on Italian faves at Pomodoro (p 206 ) or a curry at Currys.

# # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # 40 2 33 39 27 4 1 9 11 18 19 21 13 15 8 OLD CITY Jallianwala Bagh 0 100 m See Enlargement To Aurah (2.5km) To Air India, Astoria Food Pavillion, Fabindia, Jet Airways, MK Hotel (2.5km) To Attari Wagah Border, Pakistan (30km); Lahore (60km) To Ista Hotel (2km); alphaOne Shopping Mall (2.4km) 0 1km e# 0 0.5 miles To Airport (15km) To Mrs Bhandari's Guest House (1.5km) the plaka

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Haryana and Punjab comprise the Indian half of the erstwhile Punjab region that was tumultuously split when India and Pakistan separated in 1947. Punjab the plaka (translating to Five Waters the plaka ) is named after the five rivers of this fertile rice bowl and bread basket : the Beas, Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej.