The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.
Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.
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