radiancy spa touch Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses.

Astoria Food Pavillion MULTICUISINE $ (mains 140-325; hnoon-11pm; a) It sounds like a food court, but it is in fact a pleasant multicuisine restaurant near the MK Hotel, cooking up a mishmash of dishes, from chicken Patiala and veg biryani to poached fish and spinach cannelloni. Head upstairs to the sister restaurant, Oka (mains 120 to

Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses. There are shops selling everything from devotional ornaments to jootis; a good place for jootis is around Gandhi Gate (Hall Gate), radiancy spa touch where they start at 200. Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar is full of salwar kameez and saris, while the city s more modern shops can be found along Lawrence and Mall Rds.

This 145-hectare sanctuary (Indian/foreigner 5/40, camera/video 25/500; h6.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) plays host to over 250 bird species, including painted storks, Demoiselle cranes, cormorants, spotted sandpipers, mallards and plovers. Its fluc