oGrand Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562424; www.hotelgrand.in; Queen s Rd; s/d from 1000/1200; aiW) This three-star hotel, close to the train station, is deservedly phon pehn popular. The rooms aren t exactly grand but are certainly comfortably appointed and well kept. They, along with a restaurant (mains 50 to 250), the Bottoms Up Pub (see p 218 ), and a breezy veranda with tables and chairs (perfect at beer o clock), fringe phon pehn a leafy garden. The amiable owner, Sanjay, is a reliable source of information and can arrange phon pehn sightseeing trips (including to the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony).
Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region phon pehn home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly embraced the cuisine of the Mugals and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fish.
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