pack up your bags Most visitors are Delhi day-trippers, but if you wish to stay here Haryana Tourism has three hotels,

1 Sights & Activities Golden pack up your bags Temple SIKH TEMPLE (hdawn-around 10pm) True to Sikhism s inclusive nature, everyone is welcome at the Sikhs holiest shrine. As when at any sacred site, dress and behave respectfully. Everyone must remove their shoes and socks, wash their feet (walk through the shallow foot- baths) and cover their head; scarves can be borrowed (no charge) and there are also plenty of people selling them for 10 an inexpensive souvenir of your visit. Tobacco and alcohol are strictly prohibited. Temple officials request tourists not to casually dangle their feet in the (holy) water tank but, rather, to sit cross-legged. Photography is only permitted from the Parkarma, the marble walkway surrounding pack up your bags the pool.

Most visitors are Delhi day-trippers, but if you wish to stay here Haryana Tourism pack up your bags has three hotels, the best being Hotel Rajhans (%0129-2512318; r 3500; as). The midrange options are Hermitage (%0129-25112313; r 1500; a) and the better Sunbird Motel (%0129-2512312; non AC/AC r 1000/1500; a).

oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cottages from 3599/3899; ais) Run by a dynamic duo, Gags and Jeeva, this stress-banishing ethnic countryside resort may be tricky to find (pick-ups possible with advance notice) given its secluded location (around 4.5km from the centre), but the effort is well rewarded. Tastefully appointed accommodation is in traditional-style (modern) cottages or rooms in the classy pack up your bags main complex, and tariffs include bed, tea and breakfast. Amenities and activities include a paintball pack up your bags field, gym, craft gallery, museum, restaurant and bar.