The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.
Opposite the entrance to the Hotel Mount- view, Caf Coffee Day (Sector 10-D; snacks from 45; a) and Java Dave s (Sector 10-D; cakes from 55; a) continue trying to out- froth and out-bake each other on the cappuccino and cake fronts.
Kishan Haveli (%01887-232650; Academy Rd; r 600-1000; a) is set in spacious naphthalene odor grounds and has an uncommercial, ramshackle naphthalene odor charm. This mellow countryside retreat, around 1.5km from town, has comfortable rooms and a simple restaurant (meals 80).
Chandigarh is spread out but, with its cycle paths and parks, was built for cycling. The Chandigarh Tourism office hires out bicycles ( 100 per eight hours); bicycles are also available for hire at Sukhna Lake (p204) for the same cost but with a (refundable) 500 deposit.
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