mothballs alternatives became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh San

The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar. There s an arms gallery (admission 10; h10.30am5pm Tue-Sun) in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays mothballs alternatives antique weapons.

MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well maintained with decent bathrooms and comfy beds. All this, along with the helpful staff , make it a reasonably good choice near the Golden Temple.

became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) mothballs alternatives Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).

Return mothballs alternatives taxis (official ones have yellow number plates) from Amritsar to the border cost around 800 to 950 and take about one hour (price includes waiting time). Shared taxis (return per person 85) also run to the border-closing ceremony from the dining-hall entrance to the Golden mothballs alternatives Temple. They leave about two hours before the ceremony starts and squeeze in eight passengers.