family travel belt loop The old city, which includes the Golden Temple and bazaars, is located to the southeast of the train

became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian family travel belt loop Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. family travel belt loop Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.

The old city, which includes the Golden Temple and bazaars, is located to the southeast of the train station and is surrounded by a circular road, once the site of the city s massive walls. Modern Amritsar, north of the train station, contains the majority of the upmarket hotels and Lawrence Rd, which is a popular eating and shopping street. The bus station is located 2km east of the train station.