Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The massive kitchens (one has a chapati machine) prepare vegetarian meals for an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day (more during holy festivals). A truly incredible feat! All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor and we highly recommend the experience (feel free to help volunteers with the washing up).
The fastest train to Delhi is the twice-daily Shatabdi Express (5.10am service chair car/ executive 570/1095, 5pm service 675/1260, 5 hours). A daily Amritsar Howrah Mail run links Amritsar with Lucknow (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/825/1158, 16 hours), Varanasi ( 365/998/1373, 22 hours) cost pasaport and Howrah ( 489/1346/1857, 37 hours).
Crystal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2225555; Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by many as one of Amritsar s best restaurants, Crystal boasts cost pasaport all sorts of yummy global favourites, from lasagne to fish curry. Book ahead, especially on weekends. There are two Crystals (one upstairs and one downstairs), apparently due to a family split we re equally divided when it comes to judging which is best. Guess you ll just have to try both!
oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cottages from 3599/3899; ais) Run by a dynamic duo, Gags and Jeeva, this stress-banishing ethnic countryside resort may be tricky to find (pick-ups possible with advance notice) given its secluded location (around 4.5km from the centre), but the effort is well rewarded. Tastefully appointed accommodation is in traditional-style (modern) cottages cost pasaport or rooms in the classy cost pasaport main complex, and tariffs include bed, tea and breakfast. Amenities and activities include a paintball field, gym, craft gallery, museum, restaurant and bar.
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