cost pasaport Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temp

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The massive kitchens (one has a chapati cost pasaport machine) prepare vegetarian meals for an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day (more during holy festivals). A truly incredible feat! All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor and we highly recommend the experience (feel free to help volunteers with the washing up).

The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number cost pasaport of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing cost pasaport Sikhism s vibrant history cost pasaport and culture, has been under construction cost pasaport for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 ai) Fifty- two attractive rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.