antena 1 stiri de azi minutes from 4.30am to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost always full. Otherwise, from

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Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range antena 1 stiri de azi rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.

minutes from 4.30am to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost always full. Otherwise, from the train station to the Golden Temple a cycle-rickshaw costs around 30, an autorickshaw 50 and a taxi (%01835151515) 120. To the airport, an autorickshaw costs 200 and a taxi 500.

Punjab is the home of the Sikhs, butter chicken and bhangra (music/dance). Here, Sat Sri Akall replaces Namastee as the preferred greeting, and Sikh gurdwaras outnumber Hindu temples as places of worship. Tourists antena 1 stiri de azi and worshippers flock to Amritsar s gleaming Golden Temple, while nationalists and the curious join in the fun at Attari Wagah s entertaining border-closing ceremony on the India Pakistan border.