alternative to mothballs Drop downstairs, past a scowling Clint East- wood, to the nonsmoking Wild West Bar in the basement,

The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism alternative to mothballs s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.

Drop downstairs, past a scowling Clint East- wood, to the nonsmoking Wild West Bar in the basement, alternative to mothballs before diving into fl avoursome Northwest Frontier style cuisine at the restaurant. It does startlingly good dhal Bukhara (slow-simmered curried lentils) and Pathan kebab (lava stone roasted lamb).

Wandering around the skinny alleys alternative to mothballs of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses. There are shops selling everything from devotional ornaments to jootis; a good place for jootis is around Gandhi Gate (Hall Gate), where they start at 200. Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar is full of salwar kameez and saris, alternative to mothballs while the city s more modern alternative to mothballs shops can be found along Lawrence and Mall Rds.