alba club el alamein The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its pos

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 ai) Fifty- two attractive rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) and the rooftop cafe has squinty temple views. Newly refurbished rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar. There s an arms gallery (admission 10; h10.30am5pm Tue-Sun) in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays antique weapons.

Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu holy texts, created by Lord Brahma. It attracts throngs alba club el alamein during solar eclipses and Gita Jayanti, anniversary of the Bhagavad Gita (see p 200 ).