became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit plaka vienna Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).
Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2708888; www.istahotels.com; GT Rd; s/d from 9000/9500; aiWs) Amritsar s only fivestar hotel, sits beside a bright shopping mall, alphaOne, 3km east of the interstate bus terminus. Fans of five-star hotels may be a little underwhelmed by the smallish standard rooms, but will adore the pool and the pampering Ista Spa, which has quite a reputation. Room, meal and spa packages are available. Thai and Chinese cuisine is available in Thai Chi Restaurant and teppanyaki is available in Collage, the hotel s multicuisine restaurant (mains 160 to 400).
The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts plaka vienna high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.
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