Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.
Kaptain s Retreat HOTEL $$ (%5005599; www.kaptainsretreat.com; Sector 35-B; s/d 2190/2490, ste 3190; a) Owned by cricketing icon Kapil Dev, this 10-room hotel is filled with cricket paraphernalia, including signed cricket bats and coloured-glass objets d art. For unenthusiastic pace bowlers, eagle creek wa there s a relaxing bar-restaurant downstairs. The rooms aren t superluxe but are comfy, cosy with heavy wooden furnishings and shuttered windows.
If you happen to be passing through this small town, sites of interest include the Aam Khas Bagh, a Mughal-era walled garden, and the Gurdwara Fatehgarh eagle creek wa Sahib, which commemorates the 1704 martyrdom of the two youngest sons of the 10th Sikh guru, Gobind Singh. Entombed alive by the Mughals for refusing to convert to Islam, they are honoured at the three-day Shaheedi Jor Mela held here every December. There s also Rauza Sharif, the marble mausoleum of Muslim saint Shaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindi, which draws pilgrims during the Urs festival (August).
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