canada outlet plug Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru H

Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru Har Gobind. After Atal performed a miracle, bringing back to life a playmate who had died of a snake bite, his father scolded him for interfering with the ways of god. The repentant canada outlet plug youngster committed suicide on this spot in return for the life he had saved. The nine storeys each represent one year of Atal s short life.

Hot Millions Salad Bar & Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2723222; 1st fl, Sector 17-D; mains 175-380; h10am-midnight; a) This is the best of its citywide branches and is popular for its salad buffet (soups, veg/nonveg salads and desserts, 284 per person). canada outlet plug The higgledy-piggledy la carte menu has everything from Tex-Mex and Chinese to Indian and Italian. It s advisable to book at this busy upstairs restaurant with attentive staff.

el alamein photos Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission el alamein photos free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British el alamein photos and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming eatery is a convenient spot to cool your heels over a banana lassi. The have-a-go-at-anything menu includes el alamein photos pizzas, burgers, soups, dosas, aloo paratha and, for breakfast, honey muesli.

plaki plaka 214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near th

You must enter the High Court via the car park. On the way is the small High Court Museum (admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) containing assorted memorabilia including original Le Corbusier sketches and the handcuffs worn by Nathuram Godse, Mahatma Gandhi s assassin (see boxed text, p 1096 ). Most exhibits are on the 1st fl oor. On request, there s a free guided tour.

214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919 see the boxed text, p 216. Some of the bullet holes are still visible in the memorial wall, as is the well into which hundreds plaki plaka desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. plaki plaka There s an eternal (24-hour) fl ame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs Gallery (h6am- 9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) exhibiting fi rsthand plaki plaka reports and pictures. Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (Ram Bagh) MUSEUM (admission 10; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the extraordinary Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the Lion of Punjab (1780 1839). Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound eff ects (think screaming men and horses in pitch battle), plaki plaka depicting various plaki plaka battle scenes including the maharaja s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially those with a penchant for war, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas. Shoes must be removed and cameras aren t permitted inside. Mata Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Model Town, Rani-ka-Bagh; hdawn-dusk) This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female saint Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a cave-like divine mouth. Sri Durgiana Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Gobindgarh Rd; hdawn-dusk) Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu ver- 6 66 66 6 6 66 66 66 6 66 6 66 6 6

became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).

Sanjay from the Grand Hotel runs reputable and good-value tours that include the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony, Mata Temple and a night visit to the Golden Temple from 500 per person. Day tours can also include the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and Sri Durgiana Temple. Customised tours to Dharamsala, Dalhousie and Manali can also be arranged.

big hip small waist Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise i

Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, big hip small waist Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, crispy lotus stems, lettuce big hip small waist wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, the chocolate trip.

These reconstructed big hip small waist 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

moth balls smell The overnight 14553/4 Delhi Una Himachal Express train connects Delhi with Anandpur Sahib (sleeper/3

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier moth balls smell for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying moth balls smell the above - Do the right thing with our content.

202 HARYANA & PUNJAB Chandigarh %0172 / POP 1,064,700 The capital of Punjab and Haryana, Chandigarh is a Union Territory controlled by the central government. The modernist architect Le Corbusier s radical design for Chandigarh polarises critics, and this anomaly among Indian cities also splits travellers. Some dislike its rather soulless moth balls smell grid and impersonal scale, while others enjoy the city s broad, tree-lined roads, angular sense of order and use of street signs. Although Chandigarh may lack the colour and chaos so typical of subcontinental cities, it does off er a clean and green respite from urban pandemonium, is home to the wonderfully wacky Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden, and has some of the state s yummiest places to eat. Chandigarh is divided into a series of sectors that are numbered. The main shopping area is located in Sector 17, while most hotels and restaurants are situated in neighbouring Sectors moth balls smell 22 and 35. The train station is 8km from the city centre. 1 Sights & Activities Capital Complex NOTABLE BUILDINGS The imposing concrete High Court, Secretariat and Vidhan Sabha (Legislative Assembly), all in Sector 1 and shared by Punjab and Haryana, were designed by Le Corbusier. The High Court opened in 1955. A visit inside may be possible from Monday to Friday with prior permission from the Chandigarh Tourism offi ce (p 209 ); bring your passport. The internal ramp, the wavy overhanging roof and the colourful supporting slabs are the main features. You can walk around to the symbolic Open Hand sculpture, another creation of the workaholic Le Corbusier. It symbolises an open to give, open to receive message of peace. moth balls smell 66 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 6 6 6 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 66 66 6

The overnight 14553/4 Delhi Una Himachal Express train connects Delhi with Anandpur Sahib (sleeper/3AC/2AC 165/430/590, eight hours, daily). It departs Delhi at 10.15pm and on the return leg it departs Anandpur Sahib at 10pm.

electric plugs argentina 215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-La

Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the spectacular Golden Temple. The gold-plated gurdwara glitters in the middle of its sacred pool of placid water and draws millions of pilgrims from all over the world. A welcome escape from the frenetic bazaars, this gilded temple is rated by many tourists as a glowing highlight of their visit to India. Regrettably, the same can t be said for the hyperactive streets! Indeed, Amritsar s crush of fuming mechanical traffi c, especially in the people-packed old city, can be downright frazzling.

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama. D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 4 Martyrs' Gallery. B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. electric plugs argentina B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden Tower. D4 31 Adarsh electric plugs argentina Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. A3 33 Information Office.A4 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 35 Tourist Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. electric plugs argentina B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. D3 40 Train Reservation Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2 sion of the Golden Temple, sometimes known as the Silver Temple for its carved electric plugs argentina silver doors. Try to visit when there are soothing bhajans (devotional songs); held daily from around 7.30am to 9.30am and 6.30pm to 8.30pm.

Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, ste 5700; ais) Particularly popular with business electric plugs argentina travellers and tour groups, the well-furnished rooms (either marble or timber flooring) come with TV, tea-and-coffee-making facilities, sofas and minibars. Standard rooms vary so check a few. On-site is a relaxing bar, round-theclock cafe and multicuisine restaurant.

malta power sockets HARYANA & PUNJAB CHANDIG A RH Chandigarh Sights Pomodoro. (see 23) 1 Bougainvillea Garden.C1 30 Punj

HARYANA & PUNJAB CHANDIG A RH Chandigarh Sights Pomodoro. (see 23) 1 Bougainvillea Garden.C1 30 Punjab Grill.B3 malta power sockets 2 Chandigarh Architecture Museum. B2 31 Sagar Ratna.A3 3 Government Museum & Art Sai Sweets. (see 20) Gallery. B2 Swagath.(see 15) 4 High Court.D1 Yangtse.(see 21) 5 High Court Museum.D1 6 Le Corbusier Centre. C4 Drinking 7 National Gallery of Portraits. B3 English Garden Bar. (see 28) Natural History Museum. (see 2) 32 Java Dave's.B2 8 Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden. D2 Lava Bar. (see 24) 9 Open Hand Sculpture.D1 Oriental Lounge.(see 15) 10 Rose Garden. malta power sockets B2 Vintage Terrace Lounge Bar.(see 19) 11 Secretariat.C1 12 Sukhna Lake Paddle Boats. D2 Entertainment 13 UT Secretariat. B2 33 Kiran Cinema.B3 14 Vidhan Sabha.D1 Neelam Cinema. (see 29) 34 Tagore Theatre.B4 Sleeping 15 AB's. D4 Shopping 16 Hotel City Heart Premium. B3 35 Anokhi.C3 17 Hotel Divyadeep. A4 36 Fabindia.B3 18 Hotel Kwality Regency. A3 37 Khadi Ashram.B3 19 Hotel Mountview. malta power sockets B2 Music World. (see 29) 20 Hotel Satyadeep. A4 38 Music World.B4 21 Hotel Shivalikview. A3 Phulkari. (see 37) 22 Hotel Sunbeam. A4 39 Suvasa.C3 23 Piccadily Hotel. A4 24 Taj Chandigarh. B2 Information 40 Chandigarh Tourism.A4 Eating 41 Haryana malta power sockets Tourism.B3 AB's. (see 15) Himachal Tourism. (see 40) 25 Aroma. A4 Shri Gurudev. (see 27) 26 Barista Cr me. A3 Uttar Pradesh Tourism.(see 40) Bhoj.(see 17) Uttarakhand (Uttaranchal) Ghazal.(see 28) Tourism. (see 40) 27 Hot Millions Salad Bar & Restaurant. B3 Transport 28 Mehfil. B3 Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT). (see 40) Moti Mahal.(see 28) 42 Jet Airways.B3 29 Picadilly Blue Ice Bar & 43 Prepaid Autorickshaws.A3 malta power sockets Restaurant. A3

Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Queen s Rd; mains 50-110; h9am-11pm; a) An easygoing South Indian veg restaurant malta power sockets with fresh lime sodas that will quench the most savage malta power sockets summer thirst. Excellent southern specialities (idlis, dosas, uttapams etc) with a sprinkling of North Indian and Chinese dishes.

power voltage resistance relationship Sporting panoramic city views from its lofty heights, this is one of Chandigarh s best Chinese resta

The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are a mixed bag (some in better shape than others), all adequately comfortable with flatscreen TV. Ensure the AC works in summer!

Sporting panoramic city views from its lofty heights, this is one of Chandigarh s best Chinese restaurants. Chicken Sichuan, eggplant in garlic sauce, spicy honey chicken, chilli garlic noodles decisions, decisions! All desserts come with ice cream; try the fried apple Cantonese style or date pancakes.

Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara Chowk; snacks power voltage resistance relationship from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, decent coffee and brain-freezing cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside the alphaOne shopping mall. Entertainment The Aaanaam (%2210949; Taylor Rd) and Adarsh (%2565249; MMM Rd) cinemas screen Hindi (and occasionally English) movies. Consult power voltage resistance relationship newspapers for session details.

beijing power plug # # # # # Fort Gobindgarh Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar OLD CITY Gole Bagh Jallianwala Bagh Railway Link

# # # # # Fort Gobindgarh Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar OLD CITY Gole Bagh Jallianwala Bagh Railway Link Rd GT Rd Circular Rd Queen's Rd Cooper Rd Hukam Singh Rd GT Rd Court Rd Gobindgarh Rd Circular Rd Bazaar Shardha beijing power plug Nand Bazaar DeliKam Albert Rd Taylor Rd The Mall Guru Bazaar Hall Bazaar Train Station 6 5

Chandigarh Architecture Museum MUSEUM (City Museum; %2743626; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h9.45am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum uses photos, letters, models, newspaper reports and architectural beijing power plug drawings to provide revealing insights into the city s planning and development.

Old Moti Bagh Palace houses a sports museum (admission free, ID required; h10.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) beijing power plug with exhibits that include memorabilia relating to Punjabi sprinting hero Milkha Singh, the Flying Sikh.

plug adapters for cuba 215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-La

Hotel Holy City HOTEL $ (%5068111; www.hotelholycity.co.in; Parag Das Chowk; r 600-1850; a) Not far from the Golden Temple, featuring mostly modest boxy rooms with scuffed walls. However, several refurbished deluxe rooms are attractively plug adapters for cuba decorated in coordinated colours and have a fresh feel.

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden plug adapters for cuba Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama. D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 4 Martyrs' Gallery. B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden Tower. D4 31 Adarsh plug adapters for cuba Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. A3 33 Information Office.A4 plug adapters for cuba 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 35 Tourist Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. D3 40 Train Reservation Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2

sleep in eye Neelkanthi Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodati

The Akal Takhat, where the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (SGPC), or Sikh Parliament, traditionally meets, was heavily damaged when it was stormed by the Indian army in 1984. The Indian government later repaired it; however, the Sikhs, appalled by the army s actions sleep in eye in the first place, pulled it down and rebuilt it themselves.

Neelkanthi sleep in eye Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodation option, with charmless but otherwise fine rooms; sleep in eye the attached tourist office (%293570; sleep in eye h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) sleep in eye is of limited help.

power plug connection Don t let the facade put you off. This mid- ranger is a welcome retreat from the bustle of Lawrence

Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu holy texts, created by Lord Brahma. It attracts throngs during solar eclipses and Gita Jayanti, anniversary of the Bhagavad Gita (see p 200 ).

p 212 ) Cultural performances to commemorate the Sufi saint. Pinjore Heritage Festival (early Oct, Pinjore Gardens, p 209 ) Three-day festival with music and dance performances, handicraft and food stalls.

Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC/1AC 212/772/1300, 11 the boxed text, p 330 ). hours), Amritsar (chair 40, three hours) Taxis to Amritsar/Dharamsala power plug connection cost and Jammu (chair power plug connection 47, three hours). The around power plug connection 1500/1700. Kangra power plug connection Valley narrow-gauge line leaves power plug connection

Don t let the facade put you off. This mid- ranger is a welcome retreat from the bustle of Lawrence Rd, with contemporary rooms that have either marble or carpeted fl oors. It will pay to check rooms for road noise and thin mattresses. power plug connection Multicuisine restaurant.

standard voltage cell Taj Chandigarh HOTEL $$$ (%6613000; www.tajhotels.com; Sector 17-A; r from 9000; aiWs) Although not

tuating population of woodland, shallow- water and deep-water birds includes an estimated 150 resident standard voltage cell species and roughly 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere. The best time to visit is October to March. ff includes three meals. The Guest House s restaurant is open to everyone.

Taj Chandigarh HOTEL $$$ (%6613000; www.tajhotels.com; Sector 17-A; r from 9000; aiWs) Although not as uberluxurious as we ve come to expect of the Taj, this place is still suitably svelte and 25% weekend discounts add to the appeal. Plush, big-windowed rooms boast ergonomic furniture, minibars, standard voltage cell flatscreen TV, electronic safes and round-the-clock concierge services. There are several restaurants, the Lava Bar (p 208 ), spa (dare to try the warrior massage ) and a 24-hour standard voltage cell business centre.

hong kong electricity plug alphaOne Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne sho

(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar hong kong electricity plug Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon hong kong electricity plug Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar hong kong electricity plug Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore hong kong electricity plug Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore hong kong electricity plug Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

FNational Gallery of Portraits ART GALLERY (%2720261; Sector 17-B; h10am-5pm hong kong electricity plug Tue-Sun, free guided tour 11am-3pm) Located behind the State Library, it displays photos and paintings illustrating the country s independence hong kong electricity plug movements.

In line with Le Corbusier s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. These include the Rose Garden hong kong electricity plug (Sector hong kong electricity plug 16), which has over 1500 rose varieties, and Bougainvillea Garden (Sector 3). Less central are the Terraced Garden (Sector 33) and the Garden of Fragrance (Sector 36), the latter with sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask hong kong electricity plug rose.

alphaOne Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne shopping mall, adjacent to the Ista Hotel and about 3km east of the interstate bus terminus, is this clean and cool food court. Purchase a cash card at the counter hong kong electricity plug to then purchase hong kong electricity plug the food from the various stalls, including North Indian, South Indian, Chinese, hong kong electricity plug ice creams etc. Take the cash card back to the counter to get any change remaining on the card.

fannypack see you next tuesday A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Kh

A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Khyber (1km) To Zinc Lounge (360m); Train Station (3.5km) Interstate Bus Terminal (Sector 43) (3.3km); Train Reservation Office fannypack see you next tuesday (3.3km) fannypack see you next tuesday 0 1km 0 0.5 miles

The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar. There s an arms gallery (admission 10; h10.30am5pm Tue-Sun) in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays antique weapons.

Chandigarh Architecture Museum MUSEUM (City Museum; %2743626; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h9.45am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum uses photos, fannypack see you next tuesday letters, models, fannypack see you next tuesday newspaper reports and architectural drawings to provide revealing fannypack see you next tuesday insights into the city s planning and development.

power sockets around the world These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm)

Punjabi Rasoi MULTICUISINE $ (mains 45-85; h9am-11.30pm) A stone s throw away from the Golden Temple, power sockets around the world this unpretentious, fan-cooled, all-veg restaurant rustles up reasonable Indian, Continental and Chinese fare.

Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru Har Gobind. After Atal performed a miracle, power sockets around the world bringing back to life a playmate who had died of a snake bite, his father scolded him for interfering with the ways of god. The repentant youngster committed suicide on this spot in return for the life he had saved. The nine storeys each represent one year of Atal s short life.

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely power sockets around the world Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) power sockets around the world To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur power sockets around the world Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary power sockets around the world Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements power sockets around the world of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas power sockets around the world P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra power sockets around the world Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon power sockets around the world Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

plaki plaka Hotel MC International HOTEL $$ (%2222901; www.hotelmcinternational.com; The Mall; s/d incl breakfas

MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well maintained with decent bathrooms and comfy beds. All this, along with the helpful staff , make it a reasonably good choice near the Golden Temple.

Hotel MC International HOTEL $$ (%2222901; plaki plaka www.hotelmcinternational.com; The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 2800/3200; ai) This midranger has unadorned contemporary rooms, somewhat lifted by the incredibly bright bed covers and sparkling bathrooms. There is a 24-hour coffee shop and business centre but the advertised gym, beauty parlour and bar are all still on the planning plaki plaka board.

Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks like plump samosas and channa bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).

canada outlet voltage Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dha

Lake View Camping Complex (%01733250166; Tikka Tal; dm 150, r 1500, camping per person per night 600) has a picturesque lakeside location and very good rooms with water-facing balconies. Tents include sleeping bags and use of shared bathrooms. Overlooking the lake is a terrace restaurant (mains 60-290).

Hotel City Heart Premium HOTEL $$ (%2724203; cityhearthotels.com; Sector 17-C; s/d 2395/2795; aiW) A reasonable and, as the name suggests, central choice. Its modernish rooms don t really meet the expectations of the midrange price tag, but they are adequately spacious and comfortable with flatscreen TV, and there s a helpful travel desk.

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. Hotels and restaurants canada outlet voltage in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.

The main interstate bus terminus is on GT Rd about 2km north of the Golden Temple. Frequent buses leave for Delhi (non-AC/AC 305/665, 10 hours), Chandigarh (non-AC/AC 175/150, seven hours), Pathankot ( 65, three hours) and Jammu ( 120, six hours).

hong kong power sockets Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming

oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cottages from 3599/3899; ais) Run by a dynamic duo, Gags and Jeeva, this stress-banishing ethnic countryside resort may be tricky to find (pick-ups possible with advance hong kong power sockets notice) given its secluded location (around 4.5km from the centre), but the effort hong kong power sockets is well rewarded. Tastefully appointed accommodation is in traditional-style (modern) cottages or rooms in the classy main complex, and tariffs hong kong power sockets include bed, tea and breakfast. Amenities and activities include a paintball field, gym, craft gallery, museum, restaurant and bar.

Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential hong kong power sockets accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly hong kong power sockets embraced the cuisine of the Mugals hong kong power sockets and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour hong kong power sockets the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fish.

Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) hong kong power sockets Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming eatery is a convenient spot to cool your heels over a banana lassi. The have-a-go-at-anything menu includes pizzas, burgers, soups, dosas, aloo paratha and, for breakfast, honey muesli.

Hotel Divyadeep HOTEL $ (%2705191; Sector 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; a) This is Satyadeep s sister hotel, and another reliable choice that is convenient to the bus station and Sector 17 (CBD). hong kong power sockets The cheaper rooms have smaller dimensions but are just as well kept as the more expensive rooms.

camphor moth balls This 145-hectare sanctuary (Indian/foreigner 5/40, camera/video 25/500; h6.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30

This 145-hectare sanctuary (Indian/foreigner 5/40, camera/video 25/500; h6.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) plays host to over 250 bird species, including painted storks, Demoiselle cranes, cormorants, spotted sandpipers, mallards and plovers. Its fluc

English Garden Bar BAR (Sector 17-C; h11am-midnight; a) A basement bar below Mehfil camphor moth balls restaurant, it doesn t exactly bring an English garden to mind, but is OK for a draught beer. A tad gloomy it may be, but snooty it is not.

lader ranch A major textile centre, Ludhiana is also the headquarters of Hero Cycles, which manufactures upward

Pomodoro ITALIAN $$ (%2707571; Piccadily Hotel, Sector 22-B; mains 245-345; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight; a) This cosy basement restaurant serves traditional Italian food in a sleek setting. Authentic lader ranch minestrone, pastas, thin-crust pizzas, risottos, grilled meats and to-die-for desserts like tiramisu and panacotta make Pomodoro a numero uno choice. There s also an impressive wine list.

Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara Chowk; snacks from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, lader ranch decent coffee and brain-freezing cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside the alphaOne shopping mall. Entertainment The Aaanaam (%2210949; Taylor Rd) and Adarsh (%2565249; lader ranch MMM Rd) cinemas screen Hindi (and occasionally English) movies. Consult newspapers for session details.

A major textile centre, Ludhiana is also the headquarters of Hero Cycles, which manufactures upward of four million bicycles annually. This big city is a convenient base from which to attend the Kila Raipur Sports lader ranch Festival (see p 200 ).

Hotels in Chandigarh and Amritsar quickly fi ll during weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari is a train station near the border at Wagah, but transport from there to the border- closing ceremony is virtually nonexistent, so organise lader ranch transport from Amritsar.

kenya power plug 214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near th

The temple s architecture is a blend of Hindu and Islamic styles but with unique distinctions. The golden kenya power plug dome (said to be gilded with 750kg of gold) represents kenya power plug an inverted lotus flower, a symbol of Sikh devotees aim to live a pure life.

214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919 see the boxed text, p 216. Some of the bullet holes are still visible in the memorial wall, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There s an eternal (24-hour) fl ame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs Gallery (h6am- 9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) exhibiting fi rsthand reports and pictures. Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (Ram Bagh) MUSEUM (admission 10; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the extraordinary Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the Lion of Punjab (1780 1839). Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound eff ects (think screaming men and horses in pitch battle), depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially those with a penchant for war, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas. Shoes must be removed and cameras aren t permitted inside. Mata Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Model Town, Rani-ka-Bagh; hdawn-dusk) This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female saint Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a cave-like divine mouth. Sri Durgiana Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Gobindgarh Rd; hdawn-dusk) Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded kenya power plug by a holy water tank, is a Hindu ver- 6 66 66 6 6 66 66 66 6 66 6 66 6 6

south korea electrical plug MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well main

minutes from 4.30am south korea electrical plug to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost always south korea electrical plug full. Otherwise, from the train station to the Golden Temple a cycle-rickshaw costs around 30, an autorickshaw 50 and a taxi (%01835151515) 120. To the airport, an autorickshaw costs 200 and a taxi 500.

MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well maintained with decent bathrooms and comfy beds. All this, along with the helpful south korea electrical plug staff , make it a reasonably good choice near the Golden Temple.

A major textile centre, Ludhiana is also the headquarters of Hero Cycles, which manufactures upward of four million bicycles annually. This big city is a convenient base from which to attend the Kila Raipur Sports Festival (see p 200 ).

Another aspect of Le Corbusier s master- plan is this landmark artificial lake (h8am10pm) replete with paddle boats (2-seaters per 30min 50; h8.30am-5.30pm). Ornamental gardens, a children s playground and the

malaysia electric plug Ghazal MULTICUISINE $$ (%2704448; Sector 17-C; meals 195-395; h8am11.30pm; a) A Chandigarh stalwart,

alphaOne Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne shopping mall, adjacent to the Ista Hotel and about 3km east of the interstate bus terminus, is this clean and cool food court. Purchase malaysia electric plug a cash card at the counter to then purchase the food from the various stalls, including malaysia electric plug North Indian, South Indian, Chinese, ice creams etc. Take the cash card back to the counter to get any change remaining on the card.

Ghazal MULTICUISINE $$ (%2704448; malaysia electric plug Sector 17-C; meals 195-395; h8am11.30pm; a) A Chandigarh stalwart, grand Ghazal malaysia electric plug has an admirable Indian, Continental and Chinese menu. Ghazal special murg (cream-based chicken) or bhuna gohst (mutton) malaysia electric plug is nicely washed down with draught beer. Vegetarians are well catered for.

Hotel Mountview HOTEL $$$ (%4671111; www.citcochandigarh.com/mountview; Sector malaysia electric plug 10-B; s/d incl breakfast malaysia electric plug from 7000/8000; aiWs) This hotel has well-presented rooms with flatscreen TV, tea-and-coffeemaking facilities, minibars, safes and easy- on-the-eye interiors. There s a health club, good restaurants (including 24-hour cafe) and the slick Vintage Terrace Lounge Bar (p 208 ).

canadian power plug MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well main

Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara Chowk; snacks canadian power plug from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee canadian power plug franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, decent coffee canadian power plug and brain-freezing cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside the alphaOne shopping mall.

MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well maintained with decent bathrooms and comfy beds. All this, along with the helpful staff , make it a reasonably good choice near the Golden Temple.

single plug outlet 3 Entertainment Tagore Theatre (%2724278; Sector 18-B) hosts music, dance and theatrical performance

3 Entertainment Tagore single plug outlet Theatre (%2724278; Sector single plug outlet 18-B) hosts music, dance and theatrical performances. Movies (mainly Hindi) are screened at the Kiran Cinema (%2705082; Sector 22-D) and Neelam Cinema (%2703600; Sector 17D), while a mix of Bollywood and Hollywood is shown at the multiplex Fun Cinemas

Lava Bar BAR (Taj Chandigarh Hotel, Sector 17-A; h11am-11.30pm; a) With lava lamps and a retro vibe, this small bar celebrates an amoebic ambiance in a hot modern way. Rejoice this fact with expensive bubbles, ie Dom Perignon or maybe not. Thank heavens there s plenty of (affordable) beer such as Corona. There s a DJ from 7pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

la plaka Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Pomodoro ITALIAN $$ (%2707571; Piccadily Hotel, Sector 22-B; mains 245-345; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight; a) This cosy basement restaurant serves traditional Italian food in a sleek setting. la plaka Authentic minestrone, pastas, thin-crust pizzas, risottos, grilled meats and to-die-for desserts like tiramisu and panacotta make Pomodoro a numero la plaka uno choice. There s also an impressive wine list.

Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; la plaka Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai) Upstairs from the affiliated Sai Sweets shop, this is the most traveller-friendly budget option in town. Run by the courteous Vikramjit, the rooms aren t fancy but are well maintained and adequately comfortable it s a sound choice for solo women.

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) la plaka and the rooftop cafe has squinty temple views. Newly refurbished rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

eye mask homemade Natural History Museum MUSEUM (%2740261; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h10am4.30pm Tue-Sun) Next door i

Natural History Museum MUSEUM eye mask homemade (%2740261; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h10am4.30pm Tue-Sun) Next door is the National History Museum, less interesting for its fossilised dinosaur skulls than its Cro Magnon man using an electric torch to illuminate his cave art!

It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run leading to the grandstands. It s about a 10-minute walk from where vehicles drop you to the seating area. Foreigners are allowed to sit at the front stalls (behind the VIP area, which is closest to the border).

At the gardens is the pleasant Mughalstyle Bajrigar Motel (%01733-231877; r 19002250, ste 5000; a), which has excellent and spotless comfy rooms and free garden eye mask homemade entry for its guests. All are welcome at the motel s restaurant, Golden Oriel (veg/nonveg thali 120/140; h7am-11pm).

plaka restaurant Sanjay from the Grand Hotel runs reputable and good-value tours that include the Attari Wagah border

DON T MISS Join the pilgrimage to Sikhism s serene Golden Temple in Amritsar. Spend some time circumambulating the sacred lake, Amrit Sarovar, partaking prasad and generally joining in. Sikhism prides itself on its open and inclusive outlook to all religions and all peoples. Witness the gilded temple during an ethereal sunrise, moody sunset, and when it is sparkling and illuminated at night. Cheer with pumped-up patriots as they watch Indian plaka restaurant and Pakistani soldiers try to out-stomp, out-scowl and out-salute each other at Attari Wagah s fantastical border-closing ceremony. When in Chandigarh, explore the whimsical world of Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden. Reputed to be one of India s top tourist attractions, this recycled plaka restaurant wonder world will enthral the kids and may even provide a few ideas for home projects! Top State Festivals

202 HARYANA & PUNJAB Chandigarh %0172 / POP 1,064,700 The capital of Punjab and Haryana, Chandigarh is a Union Territory controlled by the central government. The modernist architect Le Corbusier s radical design for Chandigarh polarises critics, and this anomaly among Indian cities also splits travellers. Some dislike its rather soulless grid and impersonal scale, while others enjoy the city s broad, tree-lined roads, angular sense of order and use of street signs. Although Chandigarh may lack the colour and chaos so typical of subcontinental cities, it does off er a clean and green respite from urban pandemonium, is home to the wonderfully wacky Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden, and has some of the state s yummiest places to eat. Chandigarh is divided into a series of sectors that are numbered. The main shopping area is located in Sector 17, while most hotels plaka restaurant and restaurants are situated in neighbouring Sectors 22 and 35. The train station is 8km from the city centre. 1 Sights plaka restaurant & Activities plaka restaurant Capital Complex NOTABLE BUILDINGS The imposing concrete plaka restaurant High Court, Secretariat and Vidhan plaka restaurant Sabha (Legislative Assembly), all in Sector 1 and shared by Punjab and Haryana, were designed by Le Corbusier. The High Court opened in 1955. A visit inside may be possible from Monday to Friday with prior permission from the Chandigarh Tourism offi ce (p 209 ); bring your passport. The internal ramp, the wavy overhanging roof and the colourful plaka restaurant supporting slabs are the main features. You can walk around to the symbolic Open Hand sculpture, another creation of the workaholic plaka restaurant Le Corbusier. It symbolises an open to give, open to receive message of peace. 66 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 6 6 6 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 66 66 6

Sanjay from the Grand Hotel runs reputable and good-value tours that include the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony, Mata Temple and a night visit to the Golden Temple from 500 per person. Day tours can also include the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and Sri Durgiana Temple. Customised tours to Dharamsala, Dalhousie and Manali can also be arranged. plaka restaurant

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh plaka restaurant ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

electric plug canada Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, t

(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary electric plug canada Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon electric plug canada Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar electric plug canada DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur electric plug canada Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always electric plug canada tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala electric plug canada Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk electric plug canada Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad recipes. Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) electric plug canada is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly embraced the cuisine of the Mugals and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fish.

Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector electric plug canada 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.

egypt electric plug Hotel Divyadeep HOTEL $ (%2705191; Sector 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; a) This is Satyadeep s sister

The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.

Return taxis (official egypt electric plug ones have yellow number plates) from Amritsar to the border cost around 800 to 950 and take about one hour (price includes waiting time). Shared taxis (return per person 85) also run to the border-closing ceremony from the dining-hall entrance to the Golden Temple. They leave about two hours before the ceremony starts and squeeze in eight passengers.

Hotel Divyadeep HOTEL $ (%2705191; Sector 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; egypt electric plug a) This is Satyadeep s sister hotel, and another reliable choice that is convenient to the bus station egypt electric plug and Sector 17 (CBD). The cheaper rooms have smaller dimensions but are just as well kept as the more expensive rooms.

moth balls smell Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Sector 17-E; mains 75-150; h8am-11pm; a) This all-veg chain restaurant d

Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Sector 17-E; mains 75-150; h8am-11pm; a) This all-veg chain restaurant does South Indian specialities with aplomb, from fi rst-rate dosas (thin lentil-flour pancakes) to satiating, good- value thalis. The cool dahi idli (spongy rice cake) is a tummy-soothing yoghurty elixir.

Priests inside the temple keep up a continuous chant in Gurmukhi from the Sikh holy book and this is broadcast around moth balls smell the temple complex by loudspeakers. The original copy of the Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is kept under a shroud in the Hari Mandir Sahib during the day and returns ceremoniously moth balls smell to the Akal Takhat moth balls smell at night. Ceremony moth balls smell times are 5am and 9.40pm in winter, and 4am and 10.30pm in summer.

Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector moth balls smell 22-B; sweets moth balls smell 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks moth balls smell like plump samosas and channa bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Chandigarh International Airport Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport (Amritsar) MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Chandigarh moth balls smell International Airport Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International moth balls smell Airport (Amritsar) moth balls smell

realitateatv online Chandigarh Architecture Museum MUSEUM (City Museum; %2743626; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h9.45am-5pm

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple realitateatv online Rd.

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

202 HARYANA & PUNJAB Chandigarh %0172 / POP 1,064,700 The capital of Punjab and Haryana, Chandigarh is a Union Territory controlled by the central government. The modernist architect Le Corbusier s radical design for Chandigarh polarises critics, and this anomaly realitateatv online among Indian cities realitateatv online also splits travellers. realitateatv online Some dislike its rather soulless grid and impersonal scale, realitateatv online while others enjoy the city s broad, tree-lined roads, angular sense of order and use of street signs. Although Chandigarh may lack the colour and chaos so typical of subcontinental cities, it does off er a clean and green respite from urban pandemonium, is home to the wonderfully wacky Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden, realitateatv online and has some of the state s yummiest places realitateatv online to eat. Chandigarh realitateatv online is divided into a series of sectors that are numbered. The main shopping area is located in Sector 17, while most hotels and restaurants are situated in neighbouring Sectors 22 and 35. The train station is 8km from the city centre. 1 Sights & Activities Capital Complex NOTABLE BUILDINGS The imposing concrete High Court, Secretariat and Vidhan Sabha (Legislative realitateatv online Assembly), realitateatv online all in Sector 1 and shared by Punjab and Haryana, were designed by Le Corbusier. The High Court opened in 1955. A visit inside may be possible from Monday to Friday with prior permission from the Chandigarh Tourism offi ce (p 209 ); bring your passport. The internal ramp, the wavy overhanging roof and the colourful realitateatv online supporting slabs are the main features. You can walk around to the symbolic Open Hand sculpture, another creation of the workaholic Le Corbusier. It symbolises an open to give, open to receive message of peace. 66 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 6 6 6 66 66 666 66 66 66 66 66 66 6

Chandigarh Architecture Museum realitateatv online MUSEUM (City Museum; %2743626; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h9.45am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum uses photos, letters, models, realitateatv online newspaper reports and architectural drawings to provide revealing insights into the city s planning and development.

malta power plug Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Queen s Rd; mains 50-110; h9am-11pm; a) An easygoing South Indian veg re

Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Queen s Rd; mains 50-110; h9am-11pm; a) An easygoing South Indian veg restaurant with fresh lime sodas that will quench the most savage summer thirst. Excellent southern specialities (idlis, dosas, uttapams etc) with a sprinkling of North Indian and Chinese dishes.

Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious debutantes and the real action is that of the spectators, some parading the Indian malta power plug flag. Loud music and a comp re pump up the crowd s patriotic fervour. The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except during Ramadan, when their stands are noticeably quieter.

Oriental Lounge BAR (Sector 26; h11am-midnight; a) Below AB s restaurant (p207), this chi-chi lounge-bar is a most civilised spot to slow the pace. There s imported beer and mint tequilas, among other things, malta power plug while the pan-Asian food menu has an impressive range, from glass noodle soup to crab cakes. Happy hour noon to 6pm.

mothballs naphthalene Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu

Old Moti Bagh Palace houses a sports museum (admission mothballs naphthalene free, ID required; h10.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) with exhibits that include memorabilia relating to Punjabi mothballs naphthalene sprinting hero Milkha Singh, the Flying Sikh.

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according mothballs naphthalene to Hindu holy texts, mothballs naphthalene created by Lord Brahma. It attracts throngs during mothballs naphthalene solar eclipses and Gita Jayanti, anniversary of the Bhagavad Gita (see p 200 ).

el alamein museum # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # 40 2 33 39 27 4 1 9 11 18 19 21 13 15 8 OLD CITY Jallianwala Bagh 0

# # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # 40 2 33 39 27 4 1 9 11 18 19 21 13 15 8 OLD CITY Jallianwala Bagh 0 100 m See Enlargement To Aurah (2.5km) To Air India, Astoria Food Pavillion, Fabindia, Jet Airways, MK Hotel (2.5km) To Attari Wagah Border, Pakistan (30km); Lahore (60km) To Ista Hotel (2km); alphaOne Shopping Mall (2.4km) 0 1km e# 0 0.5 miles To Airport (15km) To Mrs Bhandari's Guest House (1.5km)

Haryana and Punjab comprise the Indian half of the erstwhile Punjab region that was tumultuously split when India and Pakistan separated el alamein museum in 1947. Punjab (translating to Five Waters ) is named after the five rivers of this fertile rice bowl and bread basket : the Beas, Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej.

eye mask templates printable The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of

Moti Mahal Deluxe NORTH INDIAN $$ (%5069991; Hotel Grand Legacy, GT Rd, Model Town; mains 130-350; h9am-11.30pm; a) Moti Mahal enjoys a well-deserved reputation for expertly prepared North Indian cuisine (especially tandoori). Consider the tasty murgh makhani (butter chicken) and diwani handi (mixed eye mask templates printable vegies in a roulette eye mask templates printable of fenugreek and mint). Icy cold Kingfisher beer is available.

The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of research, although the first international flights may start before this date. The following have daily flights to Delhi (one way 3000) and Mumbai (Bombay; 7700).

(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary eye mask templates printable Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary eye mask templates printable Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised eye mask templates printable by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej eye mask templates printable River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind eye mask templates printable Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

Another 6km away is Jyotisar, where the banyan tree is said to be an off shoot of the one under which Krishna delivered the Bhagavad Gita. There s a one-hour Hindi (English on request) sound-and-light show (adult/child 20/15; hsunset Tue-Sun).

taiwan electricity plug Hotel MC International HOTEL $$ (%2222901; www.hotelmcinternational.com; The Mall; s/d incl breakfas

Hotel MC International HOTEL $$ (%2222901; www.hotelmcinternational.com; The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 2800/3200; ai) This midranger has unadorned contemporary rooms, taiwan electricity plug somewhat lifted by the incredibly bright bed covers and sparkling bathrooms. There is a 24-hour coffee shop and business taiwan electricity plug centre but the advertised gym, beauty parlour and bar are all still on the planning board.

(and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect taiwan electricity plug the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam taiwan electricity plug Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh taiwan electricity plug Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh taiwan electricity plug Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute. travellers may need to cross a boundary Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where be those recognised by neighbouring countries. the Government of India. Some boundaries may not External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of (25km) To Pathankot RiverRavi unaYam Sutlej River RiverBeas P R A D E S H U T T A R R A J A S T H A N P U N J A B H A R Y A N A P R A D E S H H I M A C H A L Raipur Kila Jhajjar Kapurthala Morni Pipli Rahon Kangra Jogindarnagar Surajkund Chhapar Anandpur Sahib Gujranwala Kalka Kurukshetra Gharaunda Nawansharh Jaijon Ropar (Rupnagar) Gurgaon Mansa Mandi Ranital Malaut Abuhar Muktsar Hanumangarh Sultanpur Lodhi Jind Dharamsala Shimla Hisar Sirhind Faridkot Taran Taren Attari Bathinda Sirsa Rohtak Bhiwani Hansi Batala Panipat Karnal AmbalaPatiala Firozpur Kasur Lahore Ludhiana Hoshiarpur Jalandhar DELHI Riv e r Dam Beas P A K I S T A N Sanctuary Sultanpur Bird 21 1 1 1A 15 1 15 10 Trunk Rd Grand GrandTrunk Rd PinjoreChandigarh Wagah Amritsar 0 80 km 0 50 miles

the plaka restaurant The fastest train to Delhi is the twice-daily Shatabdi Express (5.10am service chair car/ executive

The fastest the plaka restaurant train to Delhi is the twice-daily Shatabdi Express (5.10am service chair car/ executive 570/1095, 5pm service 675/1260, 5 hours). A daily Amritsar Howrah the plaka restaurant Mail run links Amritsar with Lucknow (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/825/1158, the plaka restaurant 16 hours), Varanasi ( 365/998/1373, 22 hours) and Howrah ( 489/1346/1857, 37 hours).

The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of research, although the first international flights may start before this date. The following have daily flights to Delhi (one way 3000) and Mumbai (Bombay; 7700).

black money holders These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm)

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels black money holders with water features black money holders (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers black money holders Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) black money holders thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. black money holders Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.

Faridkot was once capital of a Sikh state of the same name and has a 700-year-old fortress. The 13th-century poet and Sufi Baba Sheikh Farid lived here, and he is honoured by a festival (see p 200 ). His belief in equality influenced Guru Nanak (see the boxed text, p 1110 ) and some of his poems are in the Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib.

HARYANA & PUNJAB CHANDIG A RH Chandigarh Sights Pomodoro. (see 23) 1 Bougainvillea Garden.C1 30 Punjab Grill.B3 2 Chandigarh Architecture Museum. B2 31 Sagar Ratna.A3 3 Government Museum & Art Sai Sweets. (see 20) Gallery. B2 Swagath.(see 15) 4 High Court.D1 Yangtse.(see 21) 5 High Court Museum.D1 6 Le Corbusier Centre. C4 Drinking 7 National Gallery of Portraits. B3 English Garden Bar. (see 28) Natural History Museum. black money holders (see 2) 32 Java Dave's.B2 8 Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden. D2 Lava Bar. (see 24) 9 Open Hand Sculpture.D1 Oriental Lounge.(see 15) 10 Rose Garden. B2 Vintage Terrace Lounge Bar.(see 19) 11 Secretariat.C1 12 Sukhna Lake Paddle Boats. D2 Entertainment 13 UT Secretariat. B2 33 Kiran Cinema.B3 14 Vidhan Sabha.D1 Neelam black money holders Cinema. (see 29) 34 Tagore Theatre.B4 Sleeping 15 AB's. D4 Shopping 16 Hotel City Heart Premium. B3 35 Anokhi.C3 17 Hotel Divyadeep. A4 36 Fabindia.B3 18 Hotel Kwality Regency. A3 37 Khadi Ashram.B3 19 Hotel Mountview. B2 Music World. (see 29) 20 Hotel Satyadeep. A4 38 Music World.B4 21 Hotel Shivalikview. A3 Phulkari. (see 37) 22 Hotel Sunbeam. A4 39 Suvasa.C3 23 Piccadily Hotel. A4 24 Taj Chandigarh. black money holders B2 Information 40 Chandigarh Tourism.A4 Eating 41 Haryana Tourism.B3 AB's. (see 15) Himachal Tourism. (see 40) 25 Aroma. A4 Shri Gurudev. (see 27) 26 Barista Cr me. A3 Uttar Pradesh Tourism.(see 40) Bhoj.(see 17) Uttarakhand (Uttaranchal) Ghazal.(see 28) Tourism. (see 40) 27 Hot Millions Salad Bar & Restaurant. B3 Transport 28 Mehfil. B3 Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT). (see 40) Moti Mahal.(see 28) 42 Jet Airways.B3 29 Picadilly Blue Ice Bar & 43 Prepaid Autorickshaws.A3 Restaurant. A3

japanese electric plug Piccadily Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2707571; www.thepiccadily.com; Sector 22-B; s/d from 3850/4850; aiW) This

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised japanese electric plug in a napkin.

The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.

Piccadily Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2707571; www.thepiccadily.com; Sector 22-B; s/d from 3850/4850; aiW) This ageing but appealing japanese electric plug three-star property off ers complimentary breakfast, contemporary rooms with LCD TV, minibar, sofa, writing desk, tea-andcoffee- making facilities, safe, and satiny bed- covers. It s worth asking for a discount and, with two restaurants, you don t have to travel far for a decent meal. Graze on Italian faves at Pomodoro (p 206 ) or a curry at Currys.

alphaOne Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne shopping mall, adjacent to the Ista Hotel and about 3km east of the interstate bus terminus, is this clean and cool food court. Purchase a cash card at the counter to then purchase the food from the various stalls, including North Indian, South Indian, Chinese, ice creams etc. Take the cash card back to the counter to get any change remaining on the card.

jordan electricity plug The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and

The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and you ll miss it). Then, the flags of both countries are simultaneously lowered and folded and the gates slammed shut. The border is now closed for the night.

Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; jordan electricity plug a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range jordan electricity plug rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.

lader ranch Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC

Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC/1AC 212/772/1300, 11 the boxed text, p 330 ). hours), Amritsar (chair 40, three hours) Taxis to Amritsar/Dharamsala cost and Jammu (chair 47, three hours). The around 1500/1700. Kangra Valley narrow-gauge line leaves

Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas PILGRIMS REST HOUSE $ (dm free but donations lader ranch appreciated, r with/without AC 300/100; a) To stay in the huge accommodation blocks for pilgrims and visitors to the Golden Temple, check in at Guru Arjan Dev Niwas. Foreigners are generally accommodated in the dorm at Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas next door. Rooms and dorms are ba

power plug hong kong oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cot

In line with Le Corbusier s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. These include the Rose Garden power plug hong kong (Sector 16), which has over 1500 rose varieties, and Bougainvillea Garden power plug hong kong (Sector 3). Less central are the Terraced power plug hong kong Garden (Sector 33) and the Garden of Fragrance (Sector 36), the latter with sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask rose.

oAura Vaseela HOTEL $$ (%01762-287575; www.auravaseela.com; Nadiali Village; s/d from 2899/3199, cottages from 3599/3899; ais) Run by a dynamic duo, Gags and Jeeva, this stress-banishing ethnic countryside resort may be tricky to find (pick-ups possible with advance notice) given its secluded location (around 4.5km from the centre), but the effort is well rewarded. Tastefully appointed accommodation is in traditional-style (modern) cottages or rooms in the classy main complex, and tariffs include bed, tea and breakfast. Amenities and activities include power plug hong kong a paintball field, gym, craft gallery, museum, restaurant and bar.

The overnight 14553/4 Delhi Una Himachal Express power plug hong kong train connects Delhi with Anandpur Sahib (sleeper/3AC/2AC 165/430/590, eight hours, daily). It departs Delhi at 10.15pm and on the return leg it departs Anandpur Sahib at 10pm.

The first stage of an international power plug hong kong airport was scheduled for completion power plug hong kong around 2013 at the time of research, although the first international power plug hong kong flights may start before this date. The following have daily flights to Delhi (one way 3000) and Mumbai (Bombay; 7700).

moth balls msds T Tours A double-decker tourist bus (%2703839, 4644484; ticket 50; h10am-1.30pm & 2.305.30pm) runs t

alphaOne Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne shopping mall, adjacent to the Ista Hotel and about 3km east of the interstate bus terminus, is this clean and cool food court. Purchase a cash card at the counter to then purchase moth balls msds the food from the various stalls, including North Indian, South Indian, moth balls msds Chinese, ice creams etc. Take the cash card back to the counter to get any change remaining on the card.

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. moth balls msds A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja moth balls msds Ranjit Singh Panorama. moth balls msds D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 4 Martyrs' Gallery. B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 moth balls msds 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden Tower. D4 31 Adarsh Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 moth balls msds Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. A3 33 Information Office.A4 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 35 Tourist Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari moth balls msds Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. moth balls msds D3 40 Train Reservation moth balls msds Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2 sion of the Golden Temple, sometimes known as the Silver Temple for its carved silver doors. Try to visit when there are soothing bhajans (devotional songs); held daily from around 7.30am to 9.30am and 6.30pm to 8.30pm.

T Tours A double-decker tourist bus (%2703839, 4644484; ticket 50; h10am-1.30pm & 2.305.30pm) runs two daily half-day trips from outside the Hotel Shivalikview (buy ticket from conductor) to the Rose Garden, Government Museum & Art Gallery, Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden and Sukhna Lake.

polarity plug Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and

Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade polarity plug up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane march to the border, vaguely reminiscent of Monty Python s Ministry of Silly Walks sketch, rouses polarity plug thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).

Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru Har Gobind. After Atal performed a miracle, bringing back to life a playmate who had died of a snake bite, his father scolded him for interfering with the ways of god. The repentant youngster committed suicide on this spot in return for the life he had saved. The nine storeys each represent one year of Atal s short life.

Hotel Holy City HOTEL $ (%5068111; www.hotelholycity.co.in; Parag Das Chowk; r 600-1850; a) Not far from the Golden polarity plug Temple, featuring mostly polarity plug modest boxy rooms with scuffed walls. However, several refurbished deluxe rooms are attractively decorated in coordinated colours and have a fresh feel.

JUNK ART GENIUS Following Independence, as refugees flooded across the Pakistan border and a newly liberated India made the bold statement that was Chandigarh, one of the new city s road inspectors, a diminutive arrival from Pakistan polarity plug called Nek Chand, was struck by the amount of waste generated as villages were cleared in the construction of Chandigarh. Chand hauled this matter back to his jungle home and gave it a second life as sculptural material. Eventually he had tens of thousands of forms made of urban and industrial waste, as well as local stone, created by his own hands and the slow forces of nature. His battalions of water women, pipers, chai drinkers, monkeys, cheeky stick men wearing tea-cup hats, dancing women and other characters steadily multiplied in secretly sculpted spaces. Chand s efforts weren t officially discovered until 15 years after they began, when a government survey crew stumbled upon them in 1973. The unauthorised garden was illegally occupying government land and should technically have been demolished, but fortunately the local council polarity plug recognised the garden as a cultural asset. Chand was given 50 labourers and paid a salary so he could devote himself to the project. Today, the garden is said to receive over 2000 visitors a day. There s a Nek Chand Foundation (www.nekchand.com), raising funds and recruiting volunteers. Chand had no formal education beyond high school. In my childhood I used to build mud houses and other toys. He is said to be influenced by modernist masters such as Le Corbusier and Gaudi, but he is clear on the main source of his ideas: they are a gift from God.

plaka market A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Kh

Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden ART GALLERY (www.nekchand.com; adult/child 10/5; h9am6pm Oct-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Sep) Entering this Chandigarh icon, a 25-acre garden, is like falling down a rabbit hole into the labyrinthine interior of one man s mind. Created by Nek Chand (see the boxed text, p 204 ), cleverly using recycled junk and organic ma-

A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Khyber (1km) To Zinc Lounge (360m); Train Station plaka market (3.5km) Interstate plaka market Bus Terminal (Sector 43) (3.3km); Train Reservation Office (3.3km) 0 1km 0 0.5 miles

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

new phon The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are

The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are a mixed bag (some in better shape than others), all adequately comfortable with flatscreen TV. Ensure the AC works in summer!

Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, crispy lotus stems, lettuce wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, the chocolate trip.

Mehfil MULTICUISINE new phon $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.

Sultanpur is 46km southwest of Delhi and getting there is tougher than spotting a red-crested pochard! There are irregular, bone-shaking buses ( 40, one hour). It s better to hire a taxi (return 1400).

camphor flakes Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas camphor flakes (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.

Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks like plump samosas and channa bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).

purpose of mothballs Opposite the entrance to the Hotel Mount- view, Caf Coffee Day (Sector 10-D; snacks from 45; a) and

Hotel Divyadeep HOTEL $ (%2705191; Sector 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; a) This is Satyadeep s sister hotel, and another reliable choice that is convenient to the bus station and Sector 17 (CBD). The cheaper rooms have smaller dimensions but are just as well kept as the more expensive rooms.

Opposite the entrance to the Hotel Mount- view, Caf Coffee Day (Sector 10-D; snacks from 45; a) and Java Dave s (Sector 10-D; cakes from 55; a) continue trying to out- froth and out-bake each other on the cappuccino and cake fronts.